Croatia part 3 - Split

I was going to include Split in the last post but decided to separate it out because I have had a few days here. It is my last night in Split and in Croatia and I am sitting on the balcony getting a little bit wet because it's raining but the cool breeze is irresistible and to be sitting out here typing while listening to Miles Davis is a fitting end to what has been a slower pace for me. Split has a nice feel to the place. It is a little crowded in the main square but only in the middle of the day. Many people live in the old town so it doesn't feel too manufactured for tourists and I feel quite comfortable wandering around all the small streets because no matter where I go I bump into either a wall, the see or a large promenade so I don't go too far in the wrong direction! The tour I was on finished a few days ago and I have used the extra days here to take things at a quieter pace just exploring and visiting some museums. The food here has been excellent and I found what I think is the best bar I have ever been to in terms of atmosphere. It is called the Library Jazz Bar and has a low stone ceiling with wooden beams, bookshelves and paintings lining the walls and amazing jazz playing. The wine selection isn't super diverse but the atmosphere makes up for it and the menu is a book filled with quotes and descriptions that could be read and enjoyed while sipping the wine or a coffee. Today I abandoned the map and just wandered the streets and I heard an almighty roar in one narrow street and on looking in I saw a crowd watching a large tv with a familiar sight - AFL. I was able to watch the last 20 minutes of the Collingwood v GWS game which felt a little surreal but a good reminder that I need to get sorted for watching the Grand Final when I am in Turkey. 

I am leaving early tomorrow for Turkey (I have set my alarm for 2.30 am) and so this is my moment to reflect on my time in Croatia. It is a wonderful country with so much history of war and bloodshed but they are still standing and have a beautiful culture of which they are proud. It has been a perfect mix of exploring, swimming, relaxing, walking and delicious food. I haven't posted all the food pictures - I might do one big food post on social media at the end of the six months but for now I am only including some of the highlights.

Croatia part 2 - Hvar

And then after Korcula we caught the ferry to Hvar. This is another beautiful town with the light stone walls and stone streets that have been polished by the many pedestrians walking through. Hvar is larger than Korcula, more tourists, more boats taking people on various trips. We did one of these trips to the Blue Cave and it was amazing. The whole day was lots of fun swimming at various beaches and in a cave - the water is so clear that at one beach (most beaches are stone beaches) it was hard to tell where the water began and the sea is so blue. The highlight of the day was the Blue Cave. I have included a photo but it doesn't quite capture the brightness. The blue is created by light reflecting on the white sand back into the cave. Another highlight of the time in Hvar was going to a remote restaurant where all the food was either sourced on the farm or very nearby. We were here for two nights which has been the pattern of the Croatia trip and has meant that I have never felt rushed. On the last night we went to a performance of a local choir sing in the Franciscan monastry. I only recognised one song as most of them were traditional Croatian songs but it was still wonderful to experience. There are more tourists in Hvar so it was a little more crowded but didn't feel overrun and the pace was perfect.

Croatia part 1 - Dubrovnik and Korcula

It was interesting to arrive in Croatia because it came with so many expectations. So many people had told me that I would love Croatia, that it was one of the best places they had ever visited and that everything was so cheap. My first stop in Croatia was Dubrovnik and it was particularly moving to hear about the experiences of the Croatian people during the war of the early 1990s. They were completely outmatched and were using Coke cans for bombs, buses for tanks and hunting rifles for weapons against a well-armed Serbian military and yet they were able to hold their ground. Dubrovnik is a beautiful city but it is also very crowded with a constant stream of tour groups from visiting cruise ships. I found that Dubrovnik's beauty could therefore best be appreciated earlier or later in the day or by climbing up the Srd Hill behind the city and looking out on the ocean (which I did!). After a couple of days I met with the tour group which is very small (six including the guide) and a nice mix of people. They are all quite independent so we are often doing our own thing but meet up and share stories which I am happy with.

After Dubrovnik we caught the ferry to an island called Korcula and I have to say that I preferred the island. We stayed in a beautiful little town and there were less tourists and more breeze because it is not a walled city so walking all around the town was much more pleasant and it had a more relaxed feel to the place. That is not to say that Dubrovnik wasn't beautiful but I think I liked the more relaxed pace of the islands. From Korcula we did a day trip to Mljet National Park. This can be accessed by ferry and was stunning. The water in Croatia is so clear and blue and there were some great walking paths all around the park. I started on one path, got lost (this is a regular thing for me and just adds to the adventure) and then picked up another path which led me to a solar-powered ferry that runs within the park to a small island. We had the whole day so I was able to wander and then go for a swim later in the afternoon to cool off. Another fun thing while we were at Korcula was that we arrived while there was a cultural festival so we saw a free performance of their sword dance with some traditional Croatian singing. I have included a photo below so you can see some of their costumes. 

My feelings on Croatia so far? I am really happy that I included it in my trip. It is very beautiful and they are a very proud nation having been through so much. It is interesting to see the various influences of the Ottomans but also a very strong Italian influence. The food is delicious but it is not cheap. Since introducing the Euro in January, prices have gone up about 300% and while it is cheaper than Switzerland, I still have to be careful to keep to my budget. What is interesting is that my favourite meal so far was at a local cheap place. I had Cevapi which was like kebabs with delicious spices. This post was longer than I intended so I will sign off now. See below for photos from Dubrovnik and Korcula. Also, apologies for the lack of variety in my selfies. I am very uncomfortable taking photos of myself and so I do it as quickly as possible which doesn't allow for me to experiment with angles!

Dubrovnik:

 

  

  

Korcula:

  

  

 

Zurich - the final goodbye to Switzerland

So I will keep this short because I’m having to write this on my phone. After a short overnight stay at Bolligen (where I lived for a short while when I was 10) it was on to Zurich. Zurich is a beautiful city and the friend I stayed with was great company - we walked all around the city talking about what everything. He is an architect so we went to a building by the Swiss architect Le Corbusier and I got the ‘architectural’ insights which made it all the better. I was only in Zurich for a weekend but it was a good weekend with lots of exploring. I went to the main art gallery which was huge with some excellent paintings and also visited the Grossmunster with stunning contemporary stained glass windows and the Fraumunster with windows created by Chagall. 

Over the weekend we talked about so many things and it was interesting to see how the Swiss live. I am struck how advanced the Swiss are on environmental issues and how much better they are at managing their resources. Their infrastructure is also excellent - it would be very easy to live here without a car and live more simply. My time in Zurich was a nice way to end my time in Switzerland as I head to Croatia…

Back to Switzerland - Bern and the Alps

For those who didn't know, when I was about 11, my family lived in a little village just outside Bern and so coming back to Bern is really special. My hotel was only a short tram ride (six minutes) from the centre and they have this deal that you get free public transport for the days you have a hotel so I was very happy with my location. More importantly, walking around the city was very emotional for me. Bern is beautiful and has a very special place in my heart. I almost started crying as I was so overcome but thankfully kept it together. My confidence in speaking in German is growing and I was even able to go into some shops and speak entirely in german! I also pulled out some of the Bern dialect (well really just hello) but to have people reply in the dialect rather than English was very exciting.

To complete the 'memory lane' experience, I decided to visit the alps so after some last minute research (ok, I googled 'Wengen or Grindelwald - which is better') I decided to go to Wengen. It was only about 90 minutes by train and from Wengen I took the cable car up to Mannlichen which is 2,227 metres and then walked the 90 minutes on to Kleine Scheidegg (2,061 metres). The path wove around the hills that were overshadowed by the alps and we walked (I say 'we' because while it wasn't crowded, I certainly wasn't alone!) to the sound of cowbells ringing across the valley. The views of the Munch, the Jungfrau and the Eiger were breathtaking. For those who don't know, the legend is that the Eiger (the Ogre) is trying to attack the young girl (Jungfrau) and the Monk (Munch) stands firmly in the way to protect her. The weather was perfect and I was able to sit and bask in the views. As I travelled back down on the train to Wengen, I felt like I left a little piece of me on the hillside and discovered that in fact I had. My earring is somewhere on the hillside. This is more disappointing than beautiful but it wasn't enough to ruin the happiness of being in Switzerland. I have tried to limit the photos but seriously, it was stunning.

Bern:

Visiting the Alps:

Dijon - an unexpected treasure

The backstory of my choice to visit Dijon is simply that I looked at the map and thought where I could go between Lausanne and Bern that gave me some relief from the cost of Switzerland. I saw Dijon, googled it (or as Sammy would say - I googled it up!) and decided it looked good and it blew me away. It is such a beautiful city. My hotel is central and I have been able to wander around and soak up the beauty that is Dijon. It is stunning and even though a Scottish man that I met today told me that it is all brand new because it was rebuilt after the bombing. I have decided to ignore what he said and just assume that I have been strolling around a medieval town. The buildings are beautiful and it even has its own Notre Dame complete with amazing stained glass windows. I could catch these really cute free little electric buses (photo below) that I have seen going around the town but I keep forgetting. Like many towns that I have visited in Europe, there are not many cars which is really nice and it means I don't have to worry about not having quite mastered the driving on the right side of the road yet. 

I have tested various mustards (see shop below) and decided that I am not a mustard fan. I really liked one but I have had Dijon mustard in Dijon and that is pretty awesome. I also had a croque monsieur in France (which was delicious) and a croissant in France. There is something rewarding about having a food in the country that it was made! A few other things I have noticed is that they like putting syrup in mineral water. These syrups include the traditional flavours (raspberry etc.) but also extend to flavours such as basil!! I wasn't brave enough to try the more adventurous flavours.

The weather is hot but that is ok because I think that after this it might start to cool down so I need to enjoy it while I can. I have spoken a little French but they answer in English which is a relief but I also feel slightly insulted because I have tried speak with a strong French accent. I also throw in the comment about being Australian because, as I have discovered, nobody has a grudge against Australians. Well, I think I have written enough so I will wrap it up but for those people who have asked me if there have been any highlights, I can say that Dijon has been a highlight. Tomorrow I return home to Switzerland for a few days before going to Croatia...

  

 

The lovely Lausanne

Lausanne, while still in the french part of Switzerland, is very different to Geneva. It is still proudly Swiss (as you will see in the photos below) but it is on the other side of Lake Geneva or more accurately, the hilly side! The weather is warm and as I lugged my suitcase up a steep hill in the opposite direction to the hotel and then in the right direction and then in the wrong direction again, I took it as an opportunity to practice gratitude. Yes it is hilly but my hotel was extremely central so when I arrived and discovered I was too early to check in, I was able to have lunch in a picturesque square opposite the town hall (see the photo of the HUGE Swiss flag!) and enjoy the atmosphere. I would be staying here for a few days so it didn't matter if I got lost every time I tried to go anywhere (I am not joking - I got lost so many times!) because by the third day I knew enough landmarks that I could navigate my way back home. 

I don't know if I saw all the sights but I was there for their Saturday market which was lots of fun. I bought a custard tart right out of the oven (you will see that I took a little bite before realising that I should take a photo of it!) and wandered around the stalls. There were some clothing and bric-a-brac stalls but mostly breads, pastries, fruit, vegetables and meats. Another nice touch was a police stall with the sign "Un cafe avec votre police?" where a policeman would make you a coffee machine coffee in a beautiful mug and chat. I have to say that it is so wonderful to be walking around hearing french and lots of "bonjour" everywhere! I have been doing alot of walking - I walked to a park which had a tower (the highest point in Lausanne). The view from the tower was amazing but seriously, the view from everywhere in this town (city?) is worth photographing.

I am here for a few days and feel that I have been able to have a little bit more of a rest. My hotel room doesn't have a great view but I do see the Cathedral and hear the bells which I just love. It is Sunday today and what is quite strange is that almost everything is shut. I had thought the supermarkets would be open but only one or two shops are actually open and the slower pace is really nice. It is still quite warm and the buildings are designed to hold in the heat but I am enjoying it while it lasts. Lausanne is quite beautiful and I have tried to limit the photos but I wanted to include one of a fire hydrant just because even the fire hydrants are a work of art! Tomorrow I leave Switzerland for a quick trip across the border to France to visit Dijon. So for now it is adieu to Switzerland for a couple of days.