Italy - Naples and Capri

I arrived in Italy after a month in Turkey and perhaps it was culture shock or perhaps I had created an idea in my mind about what Naples would be like, but I was a little underwhelmed. The weather was cooler, the people seemed a little unhappy or not as laid back and after arriving at the hotel, I went for a walk and accidentally walked around the worst part of the city without realising. This was not a good beginning but things gradually shifted. The next day I went on a free walking tour and despite the rain, enjoyed exploring the old town and having some delicious pizza with some people that I met on the tour. Naples has character and really cool street art. It was fun to walk around the narrow streets, explore further afield and appreciate their obsession with the Napoli football team and in particular, Maradona. You can't go a few steps without seeing the light blue and white stripes and the number three (the number of championships they have won) or the number 10 (Maradona's number). 

In my final day, after much deliberating, I took a day trip to Capri. The weather seriously limited my time on the island because only the larger 'twice a day' ferry was operating. The smaller, hourly ferries weren't operating because of the weather. I don't often get seasick which was good because it was very choppy and I ended up listening to music on the trip so I didn't have to listen to the sounds of various passengers throwing up. I arrived in one piece in Capri and while I wasn't able to see what I really wanted to see (Casa Malaparte) I was able to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere, the gardens and the sculptures. It is a pretty island and I would like to go back when it is warmer. I don't think I could afford to stay there (I bought an espresso without checking the price and it cost me 6 euros which is about $11 dollars!!!) but another day trip would be nice. I did grow to really enjoy Naples but it was time to move on to Florence.

Naples

 

 

  

Capri

 

 

Turkiye - circling back to Istanbul

There is so much to catch up on and I don't have the time to talk about everything so this is going to be a huge post with some photos of each place up to returning to Istanbul. I will write a few lines on each place and will try to keep things succinct. 

Anatalya

Anatalya is a beautiful old town by the water. There are quite strict travel restrictions so it has maintained a traditional beauty. It was wonderful to explore

   

Konya

This is a very religious city (one of the most religious in Turkey) and last time I visited it I didn't really like it but this time I appreciated its beauty and it was interesting to read some of Rumi's writings which became the inspiration for the sufis and the whirling dervishes.

Kapadokya (Cappadocia for tourists!)

This is an amazing place. I think it would have to be my favourite place in Turkiye. I finally went in a hot air balloon which was fantastic and we were able to explore, visit the fairy chimneys, watch the sunset from a rooftop terrace with 360 degree views, meet some lovely Turkish people who made us dinner and the list goes on. I could have spent more time here as there were so many more walks, people to meet and sunsets to enjoy. 

 

 

Istanbul & Icmeler

We came back to Istanbul for a night. I said goodbye to people from the tour and headed down to Icmeler which is in the south of Turkiye. I was very happy to see my cousin and walk out of the town because it was FULL of tourists and a little bit tacky. This week was going to be my rest week but instead I organised lots of tutoring (waking up at 5 every morning gets a bit much!) and Alec and I did lots of walking. It was not the week I had planned but it was still good and I ended up meeting some really lovely locals which led to good conversations and some free coffee! Another thing I did was go a little bit blonder which was a fun holiday thing to do but it might last a little longer after I get back to Melbourne

 

Back in Istanbul

I am now back in Istanbul for a week before going to Italy. I was going to be flying to Israel today, which obviously didn't happen, and it has in some ways marred the trip because of the sadness of the situation but I am not going to dwell on this here because it is a holiday blog and I am still thinking through some of the issues. 

Taking the approach that everything that happens is all part of the adventure (shout out to Kimberley for this travel motto that we share!), I have seen the change of plans as a good thing. I will stay in Istanbul for a week to properly relax before heading to Italy. I will spend more time in Italy than originally planned which I am excited about. 

These photos are actually from Istanbul before I went to Marmaris but I wanted to include them because it was the most amazing Turkish coffee and he taught us how to make it.

Turkiye - A few costal moments

I have got so behind in this blog that I have decided just to smash out the next few days so get ready for me to cover Pammukale and then down to the southern coast to Oludeniz and Kas. 

Pammukale is probably well known by many of you, it is a nautral phenomena where the calcium carbonate in the hot springs react to the oxygen and create what looks like snow or white stone on a hill called the Travertines. It looks amazing during the day but also at sunset it captures the light. We climbed up the hill and explored various ruins and a theatre in the afternoon and then watched the sun set. It was hard to find a quiet place to admire it but I was able to move a little away from the crowds. It was really beautiful and as per usual, the photos don't really capture the glow. 

While we were in this area we visited an abandoned village. In 1923, after the Treaty of Lausanne, there occurred the 'Great Population Exchange' in which Greek people living in Turkey were forced to move to Greece and Turkish people in Greece were forced to come to Turkey. From all perspectives this was very traumatic however did seem to impact more Greek people (1.2 million of the 1.6 people were Greek residents of Turkey). As with other sensitive chapters in history, it is difficult to unpack the truth but it was definitely an emotionally and physically violent period. We visited a village that had been a thriving Greek community and now stands desolate. This moment was juxtaposed with the following day which was a day at Oludeniz (also the Blue Lagoon) which was made up of just relaxing by the sea and enjoying the stunning scenery. I feel a bit uncomfortable with these travel contrasts but it was a fabulous day nontheless. 

Finally Kas. So, by way of background, last time I came to Turkey, I loved Kas and when I arrived I was a little overwhelmed by the strength of this emotion. Kas is a little touristy but for good reason because it is a beautiful little town by the water. We were here for a couple of nights because we also did a fabulous boat trip on one day just travelling around to different parts of the Mediterranean to swim and have an amazing lunch of home-cooked Turkish food. Turkish food is one of the best cuisines in the world and we got to sample some different dishes that were cooked to perfection and the swimming was relaxing. Visiting Kas was...I think the best way to describe it is to use an analogy of having a fabulous gin and tonic and then having another gin and tonic in the same glass but this time with Elderberry gin so it is the same drink but a little different and while not the classic version, it is a little better. 

Pammukale

  

The Greek village

Oludeniz

  

  

Kas

Turkiye - Gallipoli, Troy and Ephesus

I have to say that leaving the clamour of Istanbul was a bit of a relief. We set off south to see Gallipoli and it was very moving. I have been to Gallipoli before and probably would not have have chosen to return because I didn't think I needed to but I am really pleased I did. As I walked among the gravestones at the Australian memorial, I was impacted by how young some of these soldiers were and the grief of war. We stayed in Canakkale that evening and it was relaxing to be in a smaller town with friendly locals and enjoy the sunset. 

The following day we visited Troy. When I last went to Troy it had felt quite rushed but this time we had the time to walk around and learn about the archeology. I had to refresh my memory about the Trojan War because it has been a while since I studied it at uni but I'm pleased I did because it helped to put everything in context. 

The next day was another busy day including visiting a carpet place and also Ephesus. We learned about the process of carpet making which was interesting but obviously Ephesus was a highlight. It was crazy busy and I could have spent more time wandering around learning about different aspects but the way it is arranged is good. The library is one of my favourite buildings and it is also impressive to see the scale of the theatre and appreciate the accoustics. 

I am finding that as a travel more in Turkiye I am continually reminded of how much I love this country with all its beauty, diversity and flaws. In each place we visit I would like to spend more time wandering around to soak up the culture but it is a large country and we still have more to visit...

Gallipoli

 

 

   

Troy

 

 

Ephesus (and carpets!)

   

  

  

Turkiye - Istanbul

It has been a while since I posted anything - this is because I had to leave my laptop in Istanbul while I travelled around Turkiye but in all honesty I don't think I would have had the time anyway. I will begin with Istanbul. It was an interesting arrival. Istanbul officially has 16 million people but the consensus seems to be that the more realistic number is 22 - 24 million. There are so many people from other parts of the country to get work but also many more from other countries. It was crazy busy. I visited the Grand Bazaar and felt overwhelmed but the noise and the crowds. 

Once I had adjusted, I was able to enjoy the symphony of sound and colour and enjoyed some of the sights. I visited some places that I didn't visit last time including the colour area of Balat and the cistern. The cistern was designed to provide water for the city if there was a siege and it was impressive with the various column designs (gathered from other cities), the statue head of Medusa (if anyone has read Stone Blind by Natalie Haynes...) and more recent sculptures. I also took a boat along the Bosphorus. These were all fun things to do before meeting the tour group and seeing a bit more of Istanbul such as sampling amazing tea, turkish delight and baclava and visiting the Blue Mosque with stunning tiles. I am going to keep this post just to Istanbul for now because there is so much more to talk about so get ready for more posts about Turkiye.